Rabbit Pellets - A good quality rabbit pellet may be offered daily but in limited quantities. The UNCONTROLLED feeding of a pelleted diet can lead to obesity, heart and liver disease, chronic diarrhea, and kidney disease which results from the high concentration of carbohydrates, low fiber and high calcium levels in the pellets. Make sure that you buy pellets high in fiber (18% or more) and that you buy small quantities. Keep the pellets refrigerated or cool and dry to prevent spoilage. Old, rancid pellets can cause a rabbit to stop eating.

Rabbits up to 8 months of age can have access to pellets free choice because they are still growing rapidly. Also, if you intend to breed your pet, then we suggest increasing the daily amounts by 1/4 cup during the breeding season. After the breeding period is over, resume feeding at maintenance level.

Hay - Timothy or other grass hay should be offered daily in unlimited amounts. It is important that hay be available at all times to your pet. We prefer the loose, long stands of hay as opposed to the pressed cubes or chopped hay. The fiber in the hay is extremely important in promoting normal digestion and for the prevention of hairballs.

Fresh Foods - These foods should be given daily. Rabbits in the wild eat primarily tough, fibrous leaves, bark and other difficult to digest plants. If you pet is not used to getting any fresh foods, then start out gradually with  green leafy veggies and add a new food item from the list every 5-7 days. If the addition of any item leads to diarrhea or unformed stools in 24-48 hours, remove it from the diet.

Young bunnies should be introduced to new foods gradually. Once your pet is eating these foods, try to give at least 3 types daily. Feeding just one type of green food can lead to nutrient imbalances. We find the addition of these fresh foods (along with the hay) help in the prevention of hairballs and other digestive upsets.

The following are the foods that you can try feeding your pet. The total amount of fresh food that can be given daily (once your pet is used to fresh foods) is about 1 heaping cup per 5 pounds of body weight.

- carrot tops, beet tops, dandelion greens and flowers (no pesticides, please)

- kale, collard greens, escarole, romaine lettuce (don't give light colored leaf lettuce or iceberg lettuce)

- parsley, clover, broccoli (don't forget the leaves)

- carrot, green peppers, pea pods, brussel sprouts

- basil, peppermint leaves, raspberry leaves, radicchio, bok choy, spinach

Treat Foods - In small amounts, you can give one of these daily. Feed about 1 level tablespoon per 5 pounds of body weight.

strawberries, papaya, pineapple, apple, pear, melon, raspberries, peach, or dried whole grain bread.

You can alternately give 1 level teaspoon per 5 pounds body weight of banana or dried fruit.

WE DO NOT RECOMMEND GIVING ANY OF THE FOLLOWING FOODS ROUTINELY BECAUSE OF THEIR POTENTIAL FOR CAUSING DIETARY UPSET AND OBESITY:

Salty or sugary snacks - nuts, chocolate, breakfast cereal and other grains including oatmeal and corn

Water - This should always be available and changed daily.

Salt or Mineral Block - Not necessary for the house pet on the described diet.

Papaya Enzyme Block - We have found that the use of these flavored, chewable, tablets have been very useful in the prevention of hairballs in rabbits. These tablets contain digestive enzymes that help to break down the the hair in the stomach and help it pass through the digestive tract. Give daily at 1 tablet per 5 pounds body weight. The tablets are available at any human health food store.

There are a number of ways to pick up your pet depending on how calm he is and his size. The main thing to remember is always support the hind quarters to prevent serious spinal injuries. Rabbit's backbones are very fragile and can easily snap when the hind quarters are allowed to dangle and the animal then gives a strong kick. NEVER pick a bunny up by it's sensitive ears. It is very painful and totally unnecessary. It is better to grasp the loose skin over the shoulders and then place your other hand under the back legs to lift your bunny from the floor.

Cage - A metal cage may be used with a wire floor of 14 gauge wire (1" by 1/2" square openings). A solid floored area is necessary to prevent sore hocks and to provide an area for resting. The size of the cage should be at least 24"x24"x18" for the small and medium sized breeds. For large breeds a cage should be 36"x36"x24".

If you are going to have your bunny roaming the house either all or most of the time, make sure that you eliminate areas that your pet can get wedged into or escape from. Also, watch out for electrical cords that they like to chew on, carpet they like to dig up and chew on, and any toxic materials such as rodent poison. Get on your hands and knees and bunny proof your home.

Litter Box - Rabbits can be littler trained relatively easily. Initially, you need to keep your pet in a small area, either in a care or a blocked off section of the room and place a litter box in the corner. Try to pick a corner that your pet has already used.

Temperature - Rabbits should be kept in the coolest and least humid area of the house. Studies have shown that bunnies kept in warm, humid environments with poor air circulation show a dramatic increase in the incidence of respiratory disease. Damp basements are one of the worst areas to keep your pet. If your rabbit must be kept in a basement, invest in a dehumidifier and a fan to keep out dampness and improve air circulation.

The optimum temperature for a rabbit is 60 - 70 degrees F. If temperatures reach the upper 80's and beyond, especially is humidity is high, the potential for a fatal heat stroke is very real. On very hot days, if air conditioning is not available, leave a plastic milk jug with frozen water in the cage. This will help keep the body temperature down.

If your rabbit is being kept outdoors in either warm or cold weather, make sure that part of the cage is sheltered from the wind and sun. For the winter, it is advisable to use straw bedding in the sheltered area for insulation. Make sure the water bowl is changed daily as your bunny can dehydrate rapidly if the water is frozen.